One man and his board
Waiting for the perfect wave,
Staring out to sea.
On Bude beach in Cornwall, he just stood there for minutes on end, either waiting for a wave (like the ones directly in front of him?) or possibly realising that October in England was a little chilly. Either way it made a decent almost-minimalist shot.
Standing on a plank
Racing the tide to the shore.
Adrenaline rush.
I have never surfed, and not likely to. However, the exhilaration of riding a wave with the spray in your face looks fairly obvious.
I’ve got the hang of…
No, I’ve fallen off again!
Surfing is tricky.
Spent a pleasant half hour watching the surfers (and swimmers) at Whitesands in Wales. Grabbed some action shots, but unfortunately most of them show the faces, which is probably not allowed.
On the way back in.
The sea is calm, I am leaving,
Back when the surf’s up.
Taken on a fairly deserted beach in Ireland, the sea didn’t look the best for surfing. This was also one of my first images where I have applied the Adamsky effect. Sometimes the image is what you see, and not what is there.
